People in ancient times called Lu Yu the "tea master", as Emperor Dezong of the Tang Dynasty respectfully called him "tea master" after his book "The Classic of Tea" was published. Gradually, people began to call those who made and served tea as tea masters (referring to the book "The Record of What Mr. Feng Sees and Hears"). Most waiters who worked in teahouses had excellent tea-making skills, and other unique skills. Moreover, their work provided them with a chance to get in touch with people of all ranks, which in turn made them become experienced and well-informed. Therefore, customers called them tea masters. Descriptions of tea masters can be found in some classic Chinese novels, such as "Water Margin" and "San Yan Liang Pai" (a Ming collection of Chinese Stories).

When the teahouse is packed with customers, the tea master will skillfully negotiate his way through the bustle, holding a shining bronze kettle in one hand and dozens of cups in the other hand, and deftly putting the cups on the table in front of the customers. Then, he will raise the kettle and pour water into the tea cups. In particular, if there are too many customers and the table is very large which makes it difficult for him to get close to the table, the tea master will have to raise the kettle to a certain height, and pour water into the cups behind the customers or over their heads. When the cup is almost full, he will quickly raise his right hand without spilling any water on the table.

Holding dozens of tea cups on one of his arms and a bronze kettle in the other hand, the tea master will pour boiling water into tea cup rhythmically 3 times without spilling any water. The process is called "Three Nods of the Phoenix". Tea masters can often captivate the customers with their excellent skills.

Today a tea master is someone who makes, boils, infuses and serves tea. Some colleges and universities in China offer a doctor's degree in Tea Cultivation, giving a new meaning to "tea master".