Wunijing Cotton Textile Weaving Techniques

2012-12-17 16:50:00 From: http://traditions.cultural-china.com/en/16Traditions3153.html

Wunijing cotton textile weaving techniques originated from the weaving skills that Huang Daopo brought back from Yazhou. Between the late Song dynasty and the early Yuan dynasty, Huang Daopo returned her hometown, Wunijing of Songjiang Prefecture during the Yuanzhen period after 30 years living a wretched life far from home in Hainan Island (Yazhou). In the process spreading cotton planting and weaving techniques at her hometown, Huang Daopo improved ginning, fluffing, spinning, weaving skills, created techniques to weave the pattern of broken flower style and the round pattern of phoenix by matching colors and jacquarding, and developed a number of exquisite cotton textiles. Moreover, she produced the famous "Wunijing quilt" by combining the advanced cotton textile techniques of the Yi ethnic group with the traditional weaving techniques of the Han ethnic group, and promoted the development of cotton textile techniques and cotton textile industry in Songjiang area.

In short, the contributions Huang Daopo made to cotton textile techniques are mainly in four aspects: 1. Ginning: She got rid of the manual method and turned to cotton gin for removing cotton seeds, which initiated the semi-mechanized operations; 2. Fluffing: She did away with former silk-string cotton fluffer and turned to 4chi-long string-controlled cotton fluffers that had large fluffing amplitude and were powerful; 3. Spinning: She invented a pedal spinning wheel with three spindles based on the single-spindle hand reeling machine; 4. Weaving: She developed jacquarding skills and made it possible to produce cotton cloth with various patterns. In practice, Huang Daopo improved cotton textile skills and tools for ginning, fluffing, spinning and weaving, and made the most advanced cotton weaving process from ginning, fluffing and spinning to weaving. And then, her hometown became the largest cotton textile center of China, and Wunijing cotton textiles earned the reputation as "supplying clothing for the whole country".

   

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