Matching French wine with food is a high-end hobby for the new Chinese gourmet, and now some French vintners are upping the ante. Chateau owners of Cercle Rive Droite de Grands Vins de Bordeaux, the "right bank of Bordeaux", are eager to prove that the pairing of French wine and Chinese food can be equally fascinating.

The marriage took place at the Shanghai Four Seasons hotel recently, when more than 30 French wines were paired with Chinese cuisine.

This Bordeaux tasting tour began with Chinese starters, including a classic barbecued meat selection and crispy fried crab claws with minced shrimp. A white wine from Chateau Tour de Mirambeau, 2008, paired well with the starters.

Its pleasant acerbity with a berry aroma and surprising freshness cut through the greasiness of the barbecued meat, but emphasized the delicate sweetness of the seafood.

Then, a much stronger red wine from Chateau Moulin Haut-Laroque, 2005 was presented with Chinese stewed duck breast and dried vegetables.

"I think the pairing of my wine and this dish works really well," says Jean Noel Herve, owner of Chateau Moulin Haut-Laroque, whose family has been in the business for two and a half centuries.

"My wine has relatively strong tannins, and sweet cassis fruit scents," he says, and it complemented the succulent and subtly seasoned duck.

Another impressive combination is an elegant red wine from Chateau Fayat. It was paired with the steamed "Ke Jia" winter melon and imperial fungus and ham, an exquisite Chinese imperial dish usually served with rice wine.

The white fungus itself has little flavor, but provides a tactile layer to the dish, absorbing the stronger flavors of the aged Chinese ham, which has been salt-cured and smoky with strong musky undertones. The sweetness and acidity of the Chateau Fayat was the perfect match.

Most of the wines presented at this tasting are available from Chinese wine distributors, and can be purchased from outlets in Shanghai and Guangzhou. The prices range from between $50 to $250.